Cape Cod Travel Diary
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For someone who is terrified of flying, I seem to travel quite a bit. Here is my Cape Cod Travel Diary to help you get a sense of what my trip was like, and perhaps score some intel on what to do (or what to avoid).
To me, Cape Cod is that All-American dream. You’ve got East Coast prep style, deliciously fresh seafood, and picturesque sand dunes calling you to the frigid Atlantic Ocean. This land mass is basically a barrier that shields the Massachusetts shoreline from the gnarly Atlantic. (If you’ve ever watched Wicked Tuna you’ll know).
I took a jaunt to the Cape in July around Canada Day/Fourth of July. It was a last minute trip that put me in a pinch in terms of hotel availability. I stayed in Provincetown – the north-eastern most tip that juts out right into the Atlantic.
Where I Stayed
P-town, as it is sometimes called, is quite the vacation destination for the LGBTQ community! Which was a nice time for my sister and I because handsome gay men we didn’t have to dodge were what surrounded us. One of the big determining factors to visit Province was its accessibility to travel via ferry rather than renting a car and driving around the land’s arc. For a quick in-and-out trip of 3 nights, it was easy to do.
We ran into the challenge of hotels requiring a minimum amount of stays around the holiday (rates typically around $250/night). But we were extremely grateful to Cory and Curtis at The Inn at 7 Central for taking us in for a single night. Their breakfast was delicious and they were amazing hosts who welcomed you warmly into the mix (plus they have insanely cute dogs). To give you a sense of the vibe, let me quote their website policies page:
Hot Tub: Our hot tub is open from 9am until sunset out of consideration of our neighbors. You must wear a swimsuit at all times, so make it a cute one. (Please note that our hot tub is open from May until October.)
Hot Pants: If you’ve got the legs to pull them off, we’re all for them.
One tip about finding your way from the ferry to this inn….VEER LEFT. Our directions took us all the way to the other side of town and up quite a ways (not fun with spinner suitcases on gravel!). As my sister noted, “Just keep walking past Marc Jacobs.”
We had patched our trip together with a stay at Salt House Inn toward the other end of town. What 7 Central has in cheekiness, Salt House has in style and décor. I fell in love with Kevin O’Shea’s design and aesthetic – right down the smallest details (like laundry fresh smells). He was incredibly kind to even set up a desk for me so I could write (now I can say that my next novel was written in a bathroom!). The food was outright insanely good and served in a parlour with a horse painting – so naturally, I was happy! They have a second property in Provincetown (Eben House), and I can’t wait to visit their location at Shelter Island sometime soon.
We were so grateful for the experience at both B&Bs that we even gifted our hosts a little bit of Canada Day David’s Tea.
When I Went
This trip happened in early July, and daytime weather was on the scorching side. But the ocean was not warm enough to comfortably take a dip. Temperatures for Provincetown aren’t particularly high relative to the “beach experience” we often dream of, so definitely check the weather trend.
Who I Traveled With
I traveled with my sister and we had a blast with our gay boyfriends. She’s never been happier to be able to wear some of her out-there outfits (including crochet, pom-poms and tassels). I pretty much stuck with my usual J. Crew catalogue look.
What I Did
The main activity of the trip was eating our faces off. There are no words to express how outright delicious this adventure was. We read up about the restaurants and were able to dine at:
- Victor’s: Hard to find but insanely worth it for the taste explosions (again, lots of walking in wrong directions). It’s pricey for a high-end deliciousness you will be delighted by. So innovative and wonderful.
- The Mews: This one is a highly rated favourite, but I would pass on it next time around. Was not really impressed by the food, and it’s pricey (so that makes the food doubly not-as-good). Beautiful view, but I would have rather kept eating at….
- The Canteen: The raw bar is unreal, and the lobster rolls just about did me in from euphoria. I have not been able to get my lobster roll fix at the fish markets here in Toronto; it’s just something that can’t be repeated. Plus, they have super cute seating out back that looks out to the shore. Not much seating elsewhere.
- Local 186: When we needed to gear down from seafood, we capped off our trip with a last meal here. The burgers were unreal. Can’t go wrong here.
Other than eating, we spent most of the time walking around and enjoying commercial street’s patios and random shops. We headed to Long Point Beach (short shuttle boat ride from the pier) and also learned the shuttle bus system to get to Race Point Beach. Loved the sign warning against great white sharks. Totally made me happy the water was ice cold! Just be sure to check your bus schedules and have the right change to hop on the shuttle and you’ll be golden. Insanely easy.
How I Got Around
We just flew in through Logan via Porter (love them) and then water taxi’d to Boston Harbor. Then we hopped on the Fast Ferry for the 90-minute zip across the Bay to P-town, opting not to rent a car and figure out how to park it around town. I would totally do this again, except there are also great advantages to cruise through other towns. Maybe next time. Or maybe not!
Food – On Resort: A+
Food – Off Resort: A+
Official Tourism Board Links